February 1, at 15. Like any self-respecting identity Golose tale ends with a happy ending. Dossier Desserts, made in collaboration with Valrhona this year addressed the issue of 'sharing', divided by four outstanding performers: Corrado Assenza, Gianluca Drum , Thierry Bridon and Camille Lesecq . Introduce this afternoon session Paolo Marchi Chiriotti and Livia, editorial director of the International Pastry . I can, with a strange dance between the chairs, to sit in the front row did not want to miss the first duet, Italy. Corrado Assenza had already had the pleasure to meet him and talk at the presentation of the guide Foodies Taste of the City of Rome, but Gianluca frame was for me a new entry.
The leitmotif of the duet No-Frame is the eternal dichotomy between pastry and confectionery food laboratory. The No-thought is already known to many: his idea of \u200b\u200bsharing primary, the sharing of material, ingredient by peasants, farmers, and beekeepers all microproduttori quality. We will be previewing the sweet 'Today lentil', name and ingredients that do not impress those who know the work of Absence: 'nature is not sweet or savory: These are categories apply to humans'. He says he got the shock in Abruzzo: Castelnuovo lentils are grown next to a deciduous forest. The only antagonist to its growth, he says, 'are not men, but the wild boars'. Said the ingredients are the protagonists: lentils, cow iblea ricotta, almond Roman of Noto and cocoa. Not the chocolate, mind you, No wants to return to the substance, the raw material. The result is a sweet but not sweet, by the geometric features and tones the late autumn. For
Gianluca Frame there is no real division between the laboratory and pastry catering, says 'techniques, the head and heart are the same'. The pastry can be both, not by chance that the cake has called Meet . Meet around a table, be it home or restaurant table as a vector of human relations 'table where you can discover through the gentle interaction, conviviality and creativity'. At the base of the frame work are rigorous technique and respect for the ingredient. First, the chocolate, hence the 'ivoire el' Orizaba of Valrhona. The cake is a geometric pattern: a rectangle of biscuit with hazelnut mousse overlapping blocks of light and cream to Orizaba 'ivoire and hazelnut. Cylinders of apple Royal Marine in oil, a scoop of mascarpone sorbet and coffee and two comma coffee jelly and lemon zest for the game complete. The same preparation is given to the flat version of 'cake'.
The duet of the Alps Bridon-Lesecq look forward to. Thierry Bridon, chef 's école du Grand Chocolat Valrhona replaces Frédéric Bau, unable for family reasons. Lesecq Camille, and from the look so young, is pastry chef at the age of 28 years tristellato Hotel Le Meurice in Paris. Working alone in the dining room, shoulder to shoulder, demonstrating great skill. We assist in all stages of preparation of desserts, everything is live, not There is nothing already, already cooked, ready. Bridon impresses us with the use of the vegetables 'Pour les botaniques the n'ya pas des Differences entre les legumes et les fruits: c'est une difference here font les chefs et les pàtissiers'. His desserts, zig-zag, pepper apple tatin and the third called Livia in honor of his partner Livia Chiriotti, contemplate the use of carrots, peppers and eggplants in combination with chocolate, crunchy and delicious cream sablés. The result is a stunning mix of colors and flavors in unexpected ways.
Lesecq, precision and amazing technicality, it proposes a dissertation on the same ingredient: apple through three desserts, the pomme d'amour (created not by chance for Valentine's Day, and soon became one of his must), the crocquante and pomme pomme founding. His philosophy is that everything must be edible here is that the swab from the marsh mallow pistachio is actually done in cream and brown leaves of the apple pulp are miniature cigarette. La pomme crocquante is a shell of meringue into a sorbet and a brunoise of Granny Smith covered by another dome of lemon souffle. Leaves of granulated sugar finish the picture of what really seems like a small yellow apple. Finally, the pomme d'amour , small Golden apple balls, marinated in raspberry juice, vanilla and lemon and then glazed, are set on small discs of sablés Breton decorated and also how small and precious red apples.
are endless suggestions and ideas that I gathered at the end of the day. I reflect on while trying to get me off all'affollatissimo buffet offered by Valrhona: there is no sweeter way to end a trip and expect to start another.
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